

Classic Armani elegance was given a youthful jolt at Emporio Armani, where menswear-inspired looks were paired with bold, geometric jewelry; architectural shoes; and an eye-popping infusion of orange. And despite the masculine vibe, there were plenty of feminine details, such as rosette-trimmed dresses that drew applause from the audience.

Luis Buñuel’s 1972 film The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie served as inspiration for Sportmax’s jaunty collection. A '70s collegiate theme ran throughout, as evidenced by cashmere anoraks, slouchy knits, and pleated skirts, worn with over-the-knee socks and open-toe hiking boots. Belted wool coats with fur sleeves, woven caramel leather dresses, high-waisted trousers, and a series of gold bugle-bead gowns—for Fall, Gianfranco Ferré’s Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi sent out a subtle, luxurious, wearable, and immensely desirable collection, paired to great effect with slicked-back hair and glossy red lips.

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